Alpine Experiences - Stage 4

What better time to get an under par night's sleep than the night before your most athletic undertaking of a hectic holiday!

Again, this video is a far better representation of this climb than my words will ever be, so for an insight into our journey that day, watch from 3.20 ish, summit from 5.30 onwards, then descent.

I was angry on leaving the car. I believed that my bad state and annoyance was going to affect my enjoyment of the experience we had come for. Then we had to go back to the car, because my bro, had not tightened his pedal fully. I don't blame him, there was a lot to remember and sort out prior to departure: clothing, for any conditions, tools, nutrition, ah and suncream, but you don't think like that at the time - It pissed me off! Luckily I had noticed only a couple of hundred metres from the car, so things could have been worse, as a pedal spanner is not one of the things you tend to take with you.

Once underway I forgot about all my frustrations though. The Alps seem to be able to distract like this. I felt pretty good actually, better than I had ever imagined. We made good progress through the lower slopes and the vineyards and dwellings. Vineyards stretched as far as the eye could see - A terrific site in itself.  The vineyard rush hour of the morning had dissolved into an incredibly quiet mountainside, which was a pleasure to cycle up. The contrast from the anxiety inducing rush of the earlier morning, probably made the peace all the better!

This peace, was nothing compared to the lonelyness of the higher reaches of the route though. The Col du Sanetsch, is not a pass, so there was no through traffic. Only some tiny dwellings on the mountain side and a power station just the other side of the summit account for the presence of about 13 miles of this stretch of tarmac. The experience is all the better for it!

I remember the various stages of the climb. The lower slopes, covered with vineyards and villages. The classic alpine tree line, before hitting the higher slopes, with spruce and fir giving way to a few hundred vertical metres of alpine grasses/meadow. Then finally hitting the baron, tundra like expanses above the meadows. The distinct sections, give an insight into your upward and downward progress.

I remember one of the most juxtaposed visual experiences of my life, seeing a superb alpine cabin adorned with hundreds of Swiss flags, in all shapes and sizes, standing next to a sign that told us that we had 15 kilometres to go to the summit, all after over an hour of climbing. Around 10 miles uphill still to go.

I remember realising after a depressive mood gave way to a few minutes of elation and then swiftly into angre, that I had by about 11 o clock that day experienced pretty much the entire spectrum of human emotion.

I remember the tunnels, one 800 metres long hewn into the rock, that allowed for the otherwise impossible traverse of the road.

I remember that after an entire mountain of going at my speed, my brother finally felt he needed to push on for his own good. Slowly his advantage of power to weight showing through as he extended a gap between us on the final couple of miles of baron lunar like landscape, leading up to the Col. And him waiting for me, so we could summit together, good chap!

The elation of reaching the top and then the thoughts of the absurdity of the way we create goals like these for ourselves. Boy, it was awesome though and the kind of thing everyone should experience.

Then it was my turn to be able to gain ground on the bro. I was always better at descending than ascending! Great fun. Another athletic experience in itself, descending an alp. You learn quickly that even if you want to, there is no way you can slow yourself down for the entirity of a descent, you need to just let go and give your forearms and brake blocks a rest, before slamming on the anchors just before each switch back.

We completed the majority of the descent. I left Andrew on one section, where one of 3 cars we had seen in four hours, found the gap between us and I really put caution to the wind. Part of it is caught in the video around 8.30 I think, though you cannot grasp this from footage. Great fun! A bit further on I waited for Andrew, but then he decided to spend time looking at a particularly spectacular view.

My descent of the last section, back into and through the villages and vineyards was truly awesome! Alone, I pushed very hard and loved really investigating how hard I could push myself and the bike. Transfering weight hard when taking a racing line through an S bend on the limit at over 40 miles an hour is a great experience. The close proximity to the road of some of the houses, really highlighted the speed and my bike showed its true colours on that descent. Something to be remembered.

It was not long before Andrew rolled  towards the car at the bottom. Huge smiles!

Alpine experiences - Stage 3

My brother made a record of our experiences in the alps. I initially used this as reference for my own writing, but I found it a really engaging read. It was just thought by thought experience by experience. So I asked him if I could stick it up on a post, effectively making him a guest writer. Thankfully he was happy for me to do that! So read on below. Alpine experiences - Stage 2, finished with us having just climbed and descended the Col du Joux Planes. And so our trip continues. Thanks for this bro.

Tuesday. 

This 20 hour period was the best of the holiday [beginning at the end of the ride yesterday]. Awoke and sighed with relief to find that I had slept well. Beautiful morning late-ish 0830. HOT. Was overjoyed to learn that Ollie too, had slept well. Ollie kept wanting milk. Spent a relaxed morning eating, packing and bathing in the stream this time we both went down. So great to have a fresh bracing wash, with your hands cupping the water. It is one of the things I have implemented back here. In the shelter of the bridge. Got out into the warm sunshine almost clean and re-invigourated. Stood watching a lizard bask in the sun on the high man made concrete/shingle bank. Made a plan to head off to Sion. Stopped in the place that we found by the main river. Had a walk along and down to the bank. There was a dark grey fine sand. The width and strength of the river, the rockiness and the surroundings made me think of Canada. I wish to go there someday.The whole freshwater/outdoor /sunny experience made me think of an environment much closer to home: Dartmoor. It is relatively easy to get to, and I love the atmosphere. I plan on returning soon again and again. In the palm of the valley on the small grass picnic area, next to the quiet valley road, in shade of the baking sun, I did some yoga. Then stood on a big boulder and tree posed. Felt alive. Looked at map and then finally set sail, retracing yesterday morning's route and stopping for petrol cheap in Cluncy sp? Then onto the cheap valley road alternative to the toll road and some stunning cliffs. Very hot and slowish for the first part, but the toll road ended and we joined the dual carriage way made some progress and then I pointed out Mont Blanc aire [aire is a rest area] wasn't sure whether to stop but luckily Ollie made the active decision. Breathtaking panoramas. Hot on the valley floor, Mont blanc summit covered by clouds. But 360 degrees of interest.

Could have stayed for longer and wallowed in the sublime, but had to move on. As was the story of the holiday. How long does it take for a scene to truly filter through. For you to absorb most of what it has to offer. Is it best to stay until you feel one with it, or best to leave, and leave wanting more. Drove up into chamonix, the road as impressive as I remembered, a few tunnels and scenic shots, tried to drive through Chamonix but Hot and crowded, as soon as we left, into the tree lined valley road, loads of places to camp, and cyclists jamming the road. Drove up through Argentiere, up an unexpectedly beautiful climb. The next hour of driving was relentlessly sublime.We stopped above Argentieres on the slope and went for a quick hike up into the alpine forest just off the road. I had the urge to continue the holiday walking, it was so peaceful and clean. Legs were still heavy from previous day though. Returned to the car. Over the hill and over the swiss border up one more stunning climb and then cresting it, a further spectacle that was too much to truly appreciate. The valley below was wide and perfectly level. There had never been such definition in the heights before. I cannot describe adequately at this time.

There was something about the perfect order of the manmade structures reflecting the geometic precision of the valley floor. The valley floor was uniformly level as the sea. There was no undulation so mountain and valley were clearly defined. Stopped for a view on a hairpin runoff with a bus. Rejoined the road behind a cyclist who was really motoring - he overtook a caravan. Ollie was tempted by the descent. Descended into vinyard- covering much of this valley floor- and onto the dual carriageway. So ended the best chunk of the holiday.We drove to Sion and then into Sion. Crowded and humid. Out of Sion. Found a petrol station and looked at a hiking map to find the name of the climb that was wanted. Set the Sat Nav to Conthey sp? and back through Sion and then drove to Colney and out, up into the vinyards and down to the main road, there was seemingly no space unused, no woodland/trees! [now that I think of it] everywhere exposed and open to traffic. Crowded and bustling. Drove back to Convey, having been on the move for the best part of 6 hours, tiredness and irritation was setting in.  From now on in note form: Intention to climb Sanetsch and find somewhere up there to camp. Looked at the steep vinyard foothills but eventually opted for the main road up. We found most promising grass verge next to a river but drove round to quieter side with vinyard. However it was not quiet. Rush hour and Vinyard entrance and I had noticed a police patrol. Stopped to rest. And then off to get milk for Ollie. Went looking for supermarket but closed. Off to petrol station. I was now feeling less self conscious in this atmosphere. Looked at tarts but resisted. Ollie paid and the girl mutter something that we both didnot understand. Le ticket, le billet of course. Why does one always make out the most sinister ideas. Back to otherside of grass verge, by river with lots of cars parked. Ollie parks perpendicular to them and right off the road. We cook eat and wash a little in the river where you are told not to wash as power station flushes tides. To bed. Starts to rain in fits, but so hot in the valley and in the car. I give Ollie light sleeping bag and he has a poor night's sleep due to cold. I sleep 6hrs -ish but disturbed by the vibrations of a diesel police car which stops opposite us for a couple of mins. Checking us out? It is otherwise too much of a coincidence. After 2 minutes I rise slowly and look. As they drive off. I remained still for the whole period.

Wednesday. Awake to a comotion of voices. Get up and see two vinyard workers staring into my bedroom in the rain. It is 7pm and time for their collection. A bit of a start. Olly wants to get in but I mislay the key. Anyway, feel like a bit of target here, but they eventually get on with their lives and we are left to curse another sub standard nights sleep and the rain.

Alpine experiences - Stage 2

Taninges is a small town, with one main avenue heading up a shallow gradient to a junction where it converges with the valley road that runs perpendicular to it. This junction is at the heart of the town and has several minor roads leading off it. Nothing unusual there for a junction! However, off to one side, there is a triangular statue which forms a roundabout of sorts that can be used, or not, as the mood takes you. There are no traffic controls and road markings are as good as useless. This 'roundabout' is a cause of mayhem, even without english cyclists appearing. And it certainly wouldn't help matters if those cyclists had just had a tiring journey and were still getting used to riding on the opposite side of La rue.

Imagine this but busier, with some queuing and then trying to approach on a bike, clipped in to your pedals

So yes, stupid junction me and my brother (English cyclists) impending mayhem. Junction survived, we attempted one road out of the town centre. This quickly turned into a dead end. We then realised we forgot something and so had to confront this void of vehicular conformity thrice more that day!

Anyway, as you will see below, my light weight brother (gravity is more kind to him) decided that rather than go up the boring (easy) pass road [red], it would be better to go up through the old town road [blue]. Proper roads! What followed was some of the steepest gradient I have ever ridden. It certainly highlighted the fact that I was over geared, riding a 39 x 25 as my lowest gear. I was struggling within 1 mile of having set off.
[If you look at how the red main pass heads off to the West for quite some way before switching back to then head East for a time. If you compare this with the blue route to the same northerly point, you can maybe start to grasp how steep this road was. This East West East sweep is built in, to neutralise or minimise the extreme gradient of the lower part of the mountain.]

I don't know what I was thinking, taking such a high geared bike to the alps, but I suppose when you're mentally planning for your greatest riding undertaking, you don't want to do anything but take your best bike. I think over all it was the right decision. Gearing is not the only aspect to consider in the high mountains. Having a weildy bike below you, with good brakes, really is a blessing when you are likely to be descending at high speed for up to 40 mins and although it may have had high gearing, the lower weight and greater efficiency would be a benefit over the many hours of climbing - at least this is what I was telling myself whilst grinding up that first 25+ % gradient.

There is something satisfying about trying to go slow enough to keep your heart rate below your red zone, whilst still going fast enough not to keel over. This all within 15 mins of starting! If only I could say that it was the view that took my breath away!

The road gradually got easier as we gained altitude. I have to say I still had no idea what to expect when it came to duration of climb. My brother had always said to me that alpine gradients are around 8% average which doesn't seem that much until you work in that you are looking at hours of continuous 8% gradient. It is all very well knowing these facts, but until you experience it, it is very difficult to get an impression.

The example my brother used to use as the best example near where we lived was a climb along the North downs way up to a place called Ranmore Common just outside Dorking. It is undulating, similar in look to alpine roads and about the right average gradient. A fit rider can climb it in about 10 mins. We'd be doing the equivalent of close to 20 times that in one continuous climb at points in this 'holiday'...but I digress.

So we continued up the old town road, which went straight up and then swung toward the main pass, at the point at which the water course cut itself a sheer path between the two peaks. Crossing a bridge onto the main road, the gradient got shallower again and the road surface smoother. My brother was hugely unimpressed by how boring this route was and how busy the traffic was, but I found the merits in how mesmerising the flow of the river was as it waltzed its way below the asphalt on it's relentless gravity driven mission down the mountain side. - I have to say, that to be able to actually sit down in the saddle at this point was a bit of a treat for me.

Making better progress, we came out at the truly uninspiring and deserted ski resort of Les Gets. Getting the pronunciation correct, for my delirious and immature mind gave me a 20 sec distraction. I felt strangely fresh body wise and was surprised to see the pass start making its way down hill so soon. My brother is convinced we missed the summit road. No matter, we had bigger fish to fry that day!

Our first proper descent was a bit forgettable, but I suppose the area was not that inspiring. I almost cut it from my memory. We spent a bit of time rolling through Morzine. Pretty surreal to be there. I love the alpine cabin/chalet style and this was my first experience of a classic ski town rather than a commercially created resort.

I didn't feel as good after that first bit of descent and our first full on climb of the trip was only minutes away - It was hard to distract myself from this fact and there was almost a bit of tension, not in an interaction sense, but more in an expectation way. Hard thing to describe, but the type of feeling that lifts if you just deal with the impending doom of the task to come - man up - and get on. Working this out at the time though was not easy. This mental distinction, I found very hard to get a grasp of throughout the trip, firstly because I generally don't think that deeply about things, lolloping emotionally through life and secondly because there was a baseline fatigue that made any type of thought formation difficult.

The Col de Joux Plane. A climb of tour de France fame. At only 1700 vertical metres it is not one of the monsters of the alps, but is known for it's difficulty nonetheless. We were actually attempting it from the 'easy' side from Morzine. 10.9 kilometres (seven miles) at an average gradient of 6.5% with the steepest gradient being 11%. Again though, it started very steep out of Morzine and I for the first time started properly suffering. I was looking at my brother who was much better geared and really wishing I had the lean physique that he was no doubt enjoying (well...) in an environment that suited him down to the ground.

Don't get me wrong, I am no heavy weight. At as good as 6 ft tall, and 75 kilos, I am probably a good example of average to skinny build, with a fair amount of muscle mass. My brother on the other hand being maybe an inch or two shorter hovers around the 60 kilo mark. In stone terms, that is around 11 and a half vs 8. Stacking four bikes on his shoulders would just about even us out in weight. A crazy thought and something I frequently reminded him of as he danced on his pedals in front of me.

With cycling, as with many sports there is no substitute for body type. There is a reason that 'climbers' tend to be the small wirey guys in cycling, because they don't require so much in the way of muscle mass to have a good power to weight ratio. In building muscle to gain an advantage, I'd also be strapping weight to my bones. It is so much about physique. I was jealous!

In the end though this wasn't a competition or at least not with each other. We were competing against the mountain. We were here to conquer and that we did. I was tempted to write on describing to you our experience further up the Joux Plane, but I spent time editing a video of our trip, so why duplicate effort when in this case, the video would probably do more justice to our experience. The first 2.18 of the video is the Col de Joux Planes. Check out the hairy descent! Enjoy!